Beehive Cleats

What Are Beehive Cleats?

Beehive cleats are wooden strips attached to hive boxes to improve grip and make lifting easier.

Standard recessed handholds on Langstroth hives look nice and work well, but lifting heavy boxes filled with honey or bees is tough on your fingers. Cleated handles extend outward and give more surface to grip.

Different Types

Beekeepers are always inventive, so beehive cleats come in various shapes and sizes. However, they generally fall into three categories:

• Basic Wooden – Simple rectangular strips screwed or nailed onto hive boxes.
• Angled – Designed for a more ergonomic hand position when lifting.
• Custom-Size – Adjustable in thickness and length to suit individual preferences.

If you make your own beehive cleats, you can customize the size and placement for maximum comfort.

How to Make Your Own Beehive Box Lifting Cleats

I am adding cleated handles to some of my hive boxes. Because of my setup, I will not be using a full-width cleat. Mine will be shorter to reduce the bulk added for when I want to use my hive insulation wraps.

In most cases, I will only use cleats on the long sides. But, using them on all four sides gives you the most flexibility.

Step-by-Step Instructions

The size of wood used to make beehive cleats can vary – you may use something you have on hand. We had 1 x 8 pine boards so that is what we used.

1. A 1 x 8 board allows you to cut strips 7 1/4″ long and 1 1/4″ wide (this is a 3/4″ thick board).

2. Some beekeepers add angles to the top of the cleat to shed water. The same angle can be added to the bottom for a more comfortable grip.

We used our table saw to cut a 15° angle on the top and bottom of our cleats. If this is too much for you, don’t panic. You do not have to angle your cleats.

3. After cutting to size, use sandpaper to smooth any sharp edges- this will protect your hands.

4. Most beehive cleats – even small ones will be attached with glue and screws or nails. Because we are working with small pieces of soft wood, pre-drilling starter holes is a good idea. You are less likely to experience splitting.

Tips for Proper Installation

Space 2 or 3 screws or nails across the flat surface of the cleat. But sure to use wood glue between the cleat the the box wall!

Exact placement is your decision. Most beekeepers align the bottom of the cleat with the top of the grooved handhold. This gives you even more gripping space.

However, you do want the cleat to be at least 1 ½” down from the top of the super – so a telescoping cover can fit correctly.

I chose to paint my cleats after attachment. You can also add a line of caulking between the top of the cleat and the side of the box for extra moisture protection if you wish.

Pros and Cons of Beehive Cleats

Adding cleated handles to your hive boxes can make a big difference in hive management. They offer many advantages but there are also a few drawbacks to consider.

Pros

Improved Grip and Comfort

One of the main reasons beekeepers add cleated handles is to create a more comfortable and secure grip.

Unlike standard recessed handholds, cleated boxes are easier to grasp – especially when wearing beekeeping gloves.

Easier Lifting – Reduced Strain

Lifting heavy deeps or supers becomes more challenging as we age. The wider cleat surface provides a more ergonomic surface which can help reduce strain on hands, wrists, and back.

Helpful for Those with Mobility Issues

Arthritis, hand weakness and other mobility problems can limit effective beehive management. For myself, trigger finger is a big deal.

You don’t need a finger getting stuck in the bee yard!  Not only is a better grip safer, it puts less strain on my already damaged joints.

Works for all Hive Boxes

Cleats will work on beehive boxes of any size. Deeps, medium, shallows – 8 frame or 10 frame – all can accept cleat handles. This gives the beekeeper a lot of flexibility and less specialized equipment to keep up with.

Cons

Bulky – Storage Issues

Wooden strips extending outward from the box add extra bulk. Hive spacing and storage are not a big concern for someone with a few colonies.

However, commercial migratory beekeepers want to be able to stack boxes closely together when moving across the country.

Increased Exposure to Weather

The wooden strips are more exposed to rain, humidity, and general wear over time. If not properly painted, they may degrade faster than the rest of the hive box, requiring replacement.

May Catch on Clothing or other Equipment

Extended handles can sometimes get caught on other equipment, bee hive stands, or even clothing while working in the apiary. This may be a minor inconvenience, but it’s something to be aware of when moving hive boxes.

Requires Modification of Existing Hives

With the addition of hive cleats, you are modifying your box. And, honestly- this is a step best done on empty boxes. Don’t try to install them in hives filled with live bees.

Alternative Hive Handle Solutions

Wooden cleats are not the only option for better hive handles. Commercial handle products are available to buy.

Modern designs that can be moved from one box to another, as well as, old fashion metal cabinet handles have been used.