How to Test for Varroa Mites

Share or Save for Later
Pinterest Hidden Image

Learning how to test for varroa mites is one of the most important skills every beekeeper should develop. Even healthy-looking colonies can have growing mite populations, making regular testing the best way to understand what is happening inside your hive. In this guide, I will share some of the easiest varroa mite checking methods that any beekeeper can use.

Beekeeper performing test for varroa mites in colony by counting drop on sticky board.

In my years of keeping bees, I have lost many colonies to varroa infestations. It happens – even when you try to prevent it. This major pest of honey bees must be controlled.

Why Testing for Varroa Matters?

When should you check your hives for varroa? Unfortunately, testing for varroa mites is not a one and done procedure. If you live in a region with mites (and most folks do), monitoring mite levels is a season long activity.

Adult varroa mite in a beehive image.

The only way to know an approximation of varroa mite numbers in the hive is to test. This allows you to decide if treatment is necessary.

Determining when to treat your bees for mites involves many factors beyond just a date on the calendar. But, we do have a bare minimum schedule.

  • early Spring (before honey supers)
  • early Summer (Late May-June)
  • Late Summer (August)
  • Late Fall (October)

Another general guideline is to check for varroa mites once a month during the warm season.

And no, you can not rely on visual inspections by the time you see mites on bees – it may be too late to do anything.

picture of beekeeper testing for varroa mites on bottom board of beehive

Ways to Test for Varroa Mites

The level of mite infestation can be determined by several methods. Each method has benefits, as well as, drawbacks and limitations. Try several until you find the one that fits your style best.

  • alcohol wash – soapy water
  • sugar shake
  • sticky board drop

Alcohol Wash Method (or Soapy Water)

To do an alcohol wash – collect about 300 bees from the brood frame area of the hive.  This is about ½ cup of bees.

Just shake the nurse bees off the frame into a box or collection container (don’t get the queen !!!).

Pour bees into a wide mouth glass jar with a small mesh wire for a lid. You can make your own jar or purchase one ready to use. Add soapy water (or 70% isopropyl alcohol) and shake gently for a minute.

Pour out the liquid through the mesh wire to strain out the bees – into another container.

Then re-pour liquid through a smaller mesh filer (coffee filter, cotton cloth etc).

Count the mites on the filter material. (A similar method uses Ether in the same manner). Of course this kills the bees you are using!!!

Because alcohol removes nearly all of the mites from the sampled bees, this method is considered the most accurate way to estimate mite levels.

*It is better to sacrifice 300 bees than to allow thousands to die due to varroa infestation. (But, I just cannot do this. ☹ Beekeeper Charlotte) I know – it is one of my beekeeper failings.

Bees in testing container for mites image.

This post may contain affiliate links. Carolina Honeybees earns a tiny commission when you shop from our links. See our privacy policy for terms.

Powdered Sugar Roll/Shake

For the powdered sugar roll – Harvest 300 bees as above – don’t get the queen!

Pour bees into wide mouth glass jar fitted with a mesh lid. (#8 mesh hardware cloth). Or you can purchase a testing unit from Mann Lake (that’s what I use).

Simply brush the bees off the frame into the cup basket until you get the needed amount. Then, add 1 – 3 Tablespoons of powdered sugar to the container, put on lid and gently shake.

If you need to, set the jar in the sun for a minute (very briefly) to increase humidity. Gently shake the sugar out of the jar (thru the mesh lid) onto a white surface and count the mites.

Arrows pointing to varroa mites harvested from bees during a mite test.

Release the sugar-coated bees. (Warning – they will be alive but they may not be happy!) Be sure to wear some protective beekeeping wear.

Sticky Board Counts

With bees and mites moving around inside the hive – some mites will fall off during the daily hustle and bustle.

Researchers have determined a guideline for detecting the level of infestation by the number that fall to the bottom.

Screened bottom boards normally come with a white grid board that can be inserted for performing mite checks. (Don’t leave that board in all the time – it cuts down on important hive ventilation.)

Screened bottom boards normally come with a white grid board that can be inserted for performing mite checks. Don’t leave that board in all the time – it cuts down on important hive ventilation.

The numbers seem to change from year to year. But, most experts recommend that more than 30 mites dropped in a 24-hour period is too many. However, this is a highly contested number because there are so many variables.

Mite Drop Counts Can Vary Due to:

  • Colony size and behavior
  • Weather conditions

While the ideal outcome would be to have colonies with zero mites, that is not usually possible. Most colonies do have some mites and they do deal with the situation well.

Perform a Natural Drop Count

Apply a thin coating of Vaseline or cooking spray to one side of the white board. You can also buy liners that are already sticky if you wish.

The greased sticky board is placed under the screen bottom for 24 hours and then removed. The screen prevents bees from getting stuck on the board.

If you have solid wood bottom boards, you can purchase a special screen insert to allow counting. Inspect your sticky board and look for mites. How many do you see?

picture of a 24hr mite drop check on white board

Drone Brood Inspection

The life cycle of Varroa Mites and the honey bee life cycle weighs heavily in favor of the mites.  They can identify whether a bee larva is a worker or a drone. They will use both but drone brood is preferred.

The female mite has time to produce 1 mature daughter (maybe 2) in a worker cell. However, if she inhabits a drone cell (with a longer time capped in the cell) she can produce 2 to 3 daughters.

When performing beehive inspections, you may discover drone brood in the stray comb between the boxes. In this case, always check quickly for mites.

Of course, not seeing mites in your exposed drone brood is no guarantee that your colony is safe.  But, it is always a good idea to check for varroa mites.

Why Visual Testing Doesn’t Work

Because varroa are external pests that can be seen with the naked eye, you might think you can just look, right?

Can you check your bees for mites by looking? Well, yes you can but its not easy or reliable.

Exposed varroa mite found in brood cell during check for mites.

There is no way you can get a true visual assessment of varroa mite numbers. This is because at any given time the vast majority of mites are inside capped brood cells.

By the time you see adult mites on the bees, it could be too late for the colony to rebound from the infestation.

Once enough bees are sick and enough disease is spread, the colony reaches a point of no return. This is why we use various methods of checking mite levels regularly.

Getting an Accurate Sample

Collect your bee sample from a brood frame where nurse bees are caring for developing brood. These bees are more likely to carry phoretic varroa mites than older foragers.

Most testing methods require a sample of about 300 bees (roughly ½ cup), and always take a moment to locate and avoid accidentally collecting the queen before placing bees in your testing container.

Understanding Your Mite Count

In both of the shake methods, we are dislodging mites from adult bees and counting them. How many varroa mites is too many?

To determine infestation percentage: Divide the number of mites by the number of bees.

If you find 12 mites: 12 divided by 300 = 4% infestation. Most resources consider numbers over 3% to be a high mite level. I am unhappy with anything over 2%.

If your infestation level is below 2%, you may decide to test again in a month or go ahead and treat – it is your call.

Common Testing Mistakes

It’s hard to do anything to perfection in the bee yard. Bulky bee suit, sweat running in my eyes, thousands of flying stinging insects – it can all be a little disconcerting.

Still, here are some beekeeping mistakes related to varroa counts – you want to avoid.

  • collecting forager bees instead of nurse bees
  • accidentally including the queen
  • estimating instead of measuring 300 bees
  • not shaking long enough
  • testing only once a year
  • relying on seeing mites with your eyes
  • testing during poor weather and rushing

FAQs

Why is testing for varroa mites important?

Testing bee colonies for varroa mites is important because it allows the beekeeper to monitor the level of infestation. If the number of mites in the hive becomes too high – the colony will die.

How often should I test for varroa mites in my hive?

Testing frequency depends on factors like geographical location, climate, and beekeeping practices. At least monthly and always test a couple of weeks after a mite treatment to make sure it worked.

Is there a testing method that doesn’t harm the bees?

Both the natural bottom board drop and the sugar shake method are less invasive and do not harm bees. However, the numbers are not as accurate as other methods.

How do environmental factors affect varroa mite testing?

Temperature, humidity, and seasonal variations can influence mite behavior and distribution within the hive.

Do I need to check for mites in a first year colony?

Yes, it is a common myth that new hives will not suffer high mite levels the first year. Do a mite count.

Which varroa testing method is most accurate?

An alcohol wash is generally considered the most accurate method for estimating varroa mite levels because it removes nearly all the mites from the sampled bees. While powdered sugar rolls and sticky board counts can provide useful information, they may not detect every mite and are typically considered less precise.

Final Thoughts

If growing varroa levels let you know it is time to do something, it is time to consider your options. There are many varroa mite treatments to try – find one that works for you. Do not let anyone convince you that your new colonies have no mite worries.

Sometimes, mite infestations do not kill a colony until the second year. It takes that long for a strong colony to become so weak and diseased that it will fail.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

11 Comments

  1. Hi
    I read your testing methods, but did not see anything on treatment of the infestation if the hive require it.
    Is treatment harsh on the colony?
    If not why not to treat the hive every 3 months or so?
    Thanks

    1. Sure, the link to the various treatment methods is in the last paragraph of the article. Treatments. Any treatment affects a colony – some are more harsh than others. And, with some of them – when used too often, the mites become immune or resistant to the treatment and then it no longer works.

  2. Hi Caroline,
    I really learn much from your posts and I have just signed up for your newsletter. I have a situation that needs your advice. I am a first year beekeeper. I made an oxalic acid dripping treatment to my strongest hive four days ago because I saw 20+ mites daily dropping in the past week. After the treatment, the mite droppings in the last three days were 208, 198 and 179! The treatment seems to be working. Do you think this hive will survive the winter after this treatment with such a high level of mite count? Should I make another treatment just to be sure that the mites are all gone? Before the treatment I noted that young discolored baby bees were thrown out. I suspected the mites have infested the capped brood and have done much damage already. Actually I treated this colony with Formic Pro one month ago and really did not expected the mite count to be so high. I appreciate your advice.

    1. Well, there is no way to know for sure Teresa. It depends on the amount of brood in the hive – how healthy it was and the genetics of your bees. I would likely not treat again right now – even needed treatments cause stress to the colony. Make sure they have enough food and keep your fingers crossed. Best of luck to you and the bees.

  3. Jacqueline Brennan says:

    Thankyou for you help. I will use an appropriate mite treatment!

  4. Jacqueline Brennan says:

    Hello Miss Charlotte–I am a new beekeeper this year with 2 hives (package bees). I live in southeast Pennsylvania near Philadelphia. I have performed a mite count with a sticky board and did not find any mites. I know that every hive has mites. I am now preparing to do a sugar roll on both hives at the end of May. I have seen videos regarding dusting the bees with powdered sugar to control the mites to a certain extent. But I wanted to know your opinion on this procedure. I have in advance purchased Apivar strips. Please advise. I am receiving your newsletter and I would like to thank you for your valuable information. Your web site is my go to place. thank you for all you do for the honeybees! Jackie

    1. I used the powdered sugar method on part of my hives about 10 years ago – the others I used an approved mite treatment. By December, every one of the powdered sugar hives were dead of varroa. I dont believe it is a viable treatment method.

  5. Shui Njiokiktjien says:

    I had a couple of hives for a couple of years 3 years to be exact and every winter they would all die I live in Idaho northern Idaho panhandle. I would like to try again this year I’m going to start with one hive and I do need to learn more about the mites.

    1. Mite control, good food stores and proper Winter ventilation – I would think those are your 3 major challenges. Learn all you can about each one for your region.

  6. I love to read your lessons. They are logical and well thought through and show your love for all things bee. All the old bee books have some basic info and all have some good advice but not very practical nor pertinent to today’s beekeeping Thanks fir sharing your experiences and knowledge

    I have some pictures of a cuckoo bee on a native rudbeckia that I tried to send but was rejected.
    Are you interested ? If so allow a valid email or text address

    Thanks Ursula

    1. Thank you, that is such a kind comment. I do try to offer value and am pleased that you enjoy them.