Home » Bee Farm Blog » Beekeeping » How to Treat Wax Moths In Beehives

How to Treat Wax Moths In Beehives

This post may contain affiliate links – read our full disclosure

How to Get Rid of Wax Moth Infestations in Beehives

A wax moth infestation can be very upsetting to any beekeeper. Destroyed comb, moth larva and webbing cover part of the comb surface. Why did this happen to your hive? Could this problem have been avoided? Maybe. Wax moths are often blamed for the death of a honey bee colony. However, this honey bee pest is often a symptom of a larger problem in your hive. How can you treat your hives for Wax Moths?

Adult wax moth and wax moth larva inside a beehive image.

Wax Moths are a natural part of the environment. They are attracted to beehives by the scent. Beeswax, honey, pollen and other hive odors lure the moths inside.

While Wax Moths can destroy a colony, most hives will not fail. A colony with a strong population is well equipped to throw those pesky moths out!

However, weaker honey bee colonies are at the greatest risk of severe wax moth damage. For a very small hive already struggling to survive, an infestation of moths may be the last straw.

Wax moth larvae in beehive image.

What Is A Wax Moth?

Let’s get to know this beehive pest, there are actually two types that can cause a problem for our bees.

Galleria mellonella, the Greater Wax Moth and Achroia grisella, the Lesser Wax Moth are both smaller grey beige moths.

Both types of moths are attracted to the hive by odors. They are most active after dark and often enter the beehive at night. Adult moths do no real damage but they leave behind wax moth eggs.

It is near impossible to keep moths out of a hive. In my opinion, it is an exercise in futility to try. However, some beekeepers do set up various types of moth traps near the bee yard – maybe they help?

Life Cycle of the Wax Moth

Adult wax moths enter the hive and lay eggs on unguarded sections of comb. A strong bee colony with plenty of worker bees is in little danger.

Chasing adult moths from the hive and possibly removing moth eggs, bees keep the damage to a minimum. However, the adult bees generally do not remove moth larvae. If there are not enough bees to patrol all the comb, the moths may get the upper hand.

Diagram of Wax Moth Development

Diagram of wax moth life cycle image.

Moth eggs can hatch in 3 days during warm conditions. These wax moth larvae (called wax worms by some beekeepers) are the true pests.

The larval moth stage can be completed in 19 days from hatch in warm weather. When larvae feeding stage ends, larvae spin white cocoons for the transformation into adults.

They will often eat away wooden surfaces in the hive creating a wavy surface and causing damage to the wooden parts of the beehive. The cocoon stage lasts about 14 days before adult moths emerge and begin the life cycle again.

Wax Moth larvae are very small white grubs. To the untrained eye, they don’t look much different than bee larvae. In fact, it is not uncommon for a new beekeeper to say – “hey, my baby bees are crawling out of the cells!”

Older, darker comb that has been used to raise baby bees and hold pollen is very attractive to the adult Wax Moth. This is the type of honeycomb that provides the most nutritious food for their young. Moth eggs laid in this region will be nearest to their food source.

What do Wax Moth Larvae Eat?

Wax Moth larvae eat beeswax, the remains of bee larval cocoons, bee cocoon silk and bee feces in the cell. All of these are present in older frames of comb.

But wax moth larvae can live on pure beeswax.  This is another reason to try to keep honey bee brood out of your honey supers. This can be accomplished by using a queen excluder.

Do Wax Moths Kill Bee Hives?

It is a common occurrence for a beekeeping student from my online beekeeping class to tell me “My hive was killed by wax moths”. This is upsetting for any beekeeper and especially for those new to the hobby.

However, wax moths don’t normally cause bee colonies to fail. Finding a wax moth infestation in your hive is just a symptom of another issue the colony has.

Unless this was a new colony just starting out, why was your colony so weak in population that moths were able to take over?

A new hive started from buying bees in a package will need several months to build a population. It may be a target especially if the beekeeper adds too many boxes at once.

Also, when you split a bee hive, failure to include enough bees in each part could lead to problems with moth damage. Any time you mix warm weather conditions with weak hives, there is a potential for a wax moth infestation.

Wax moth webbing tunnels in honeycomb of a beehive image.

How Do You Know If You Have a Wax Moth Infestation?

The easiest method of detecting wax moths is the presence of webbing and tunnels in the honeycomb. Moth larvae leave behind noticeable tunnels with a “spider-like” webbing.

Larval feces (small cylindrical black pieces) can also be seen on the bottom board and in the webbing on the comb.

They continue to eat until all the wax has been consumed. Leaving a webby, mess for the beekeeper to clean.

Sometimes, wax moth larvae can be found crawling on the comb surface. The larvae are easily confused with Small Hive Beetle larvae, another bee pest.

Feces and webbing from wax moth damage on honeycomb image.

Wax Moth Treatment and Control

The best way to treat wax moth in your hives is to avoid letting the situation get out of control. There is no chemical that you can put in your hive to kill moth larvae and not damage the bees.

Some techniques can help ensure that your bees are able to defend themselves again wax moths.

  1. keep all colonies as strong as possible
  2. do not give the bees too many boxes at one time
  3. check colony population periodically throughout the warm season
  4. if a large crowded hive swarms – consider reducing the number of boxes if the population drops too low.

Keep strong healthy colonies with lots of bees. Are there enough bees to cover most of the comb surface?

Don’t put too many boxes on the hive at one time if the population of the hive can not patrol the comb. This is very risky during Summer.

Using Moth Traps in the Bee Yard

Some beekeepers put out “moth traps” to try to lessen the number of adult moths entering beehives. These traps are commonly home-made with many different “bait” recipes in use.

Perhaps you can experiment with bait recipes. But don’t expect traps to be the complete answer to moth problems. They will not make up for good hive management.

Protecting Stored Honey Supers

One of the biggest mistakes made by new beekeepers is improper storage of honey supers. Moths can destroy your drawn comb too. 

Freezing comb and then place it in a tight storage container. Or use approved chemical repellants designed for this use.

Cleaning Up a Hive Infested with Wax Moths

Even with advanced damage to the comb, the honey bee colony may be trying to save the hive. You may find a few bees trying to hang on or the colony may already be dead.

If your bees are all gone (or too few to survive), it is best to disassemble the hive. Scrap away any comb debris webbing etc. You will need to scrape any cocoons away from the frames and inside of the box.

Wax moth cocoons and damage in a bee hive box image.

Beekeepers who use plastic foundation have less of a clean up job on wax moth infected frames.  Those of us who prefer beeswax foundation need to keep extras on hand so we can replace the wax foundation.

Any “good” frames that you remove from the hive should be frozen for 2 or 3 days to kill any moth eggs and then stored in a moth free place until needed.

Scorching the inside of the box with a propane torch will aid in killing any cocoons or eggs that are not easily visible.

Strong Colonies Can Repair Wax Moth Damage

Seeing an adult moth or a few moth larvae is no cause for panic. Even a strong colony may have the occasional moth or wax worm.

When a honey bee colony has a minor problem with moth infestations, the bees will clean and repair the comb.

If the colony still have enough bees and a queen, they may still be saved. Remove the frames that are most infested or damaged and reduce the hive size down to fewer boxes.

A 2 deep hive may need to temporarily be reduced to a 1 story deep. A single deep may need to be in a 5 frame nuc for a while until the colony population rebounds.

A Final Word on Treating Wax Moths in Beehives

While they may cause many headaches for beekeepers, wax moths are not an enemy of honey bees. They are a natural part of the bee ecosystem.

In the wild, wax moths enter an abandoned colony and clean up old comb. This leaves a clean disease-free cavity for the next bee swarm. 

The best way to treat wax moths is use good bee management practices. The same can be said of Earwigs and roaches. Keeping colonies strong with the proper amount of space to guard will allow the bees to do the job.

Similar Posts

29 Comments

  1. Hi Charlotte,
    Thanks for your blogs. Wondered if you can tell me if worker bees normally throw out the drones every few weeks during the season? I observed smaller bees stinging bigger bees outside one of my hives yesterday. Figured they were kicking out drones. The bees have been acting weird lately. Not out foraging like usual. We’ve had weird wet & cold weather for two weekends in a row. What do you think?

  2. With the weird weather we have had this year I’m not sure what normal is ! LOL. Seriously, the bees only throw out drones in 2 situations that I know of. One of course is in the Fall. October for me here in SC. They dont need them over winter and dont want to feed them. And the other situation is when resources are scarce. For instance, if I have really hot summer weather with drought – some of my colonies will cast out the drones to save on food. If they need some, they just make some more. No way to know whats happening inside the hive without doing an inspection. Watch out for robbing! That could be what you are seeing. I have a good post on honey bee robbing behavior.

  3. when transferring bees out of the wild to my bee box
    THEY DIE….can u give any possible reason as to why
    the least hive i brought home was only 15mins away from my home

  4. First, you must be sure to get the queen bee and she must be well mated. After that, pest management such as developing a mite treatment plant is vital.

  5. Jenny Corbett says:

    I have had bees in a chimney for 3 years now. They have rendered the room practically unusable and I could see no way of moving them. Then lately I have had an infestation of wax moth and the bees seems to have disappeared. I do need to clear the chimney of bees and the moths seems to be doing that but how can I make sure that another swarm do not arrive? I will have the chimney blocked up but there always has to be ventilation so bees will get in again. Is there something I can use to get rid of the smell so they do not return? Should I now have the chimney swept and then light a smokey fire or is that dangerous.

  6. I would definitely have the chimney cleaned. Yes, hopefully the cleaning process and some smoke will discourage future swarms.

  7. My weak hive was infested with wax moths. I am a new beekeeper. Can I just scrape the infested wax off of the frame plastic foundation?

  8. Absolutely. That is one advantage to plastic foundation, you dont have to put new wax in the frames.

  9. We have the same problem but with wood frames what should we do different?

  10. I use wood frames as well. If the comb is not destroyed, just freeze the whole frame and all for a few days and scrape off any cocoons etc that you might see. Then they are fine to re-use. If the comb is over 50% destroyed (on 20% for me), I just replace it with new foundation and use the wax for other purposes.

  11. I have holes in my wood frames where the larvae dug in. Do I need to fill them? If so, what should I fill them with?

  12. Rick Webb says:

    I am a new bee keeper and I have read a lot of atricals on the day to day challenge of my new hobby. I have to say that your information that you give to your followers is clear and decide. You have a way of getting to the point and being very informative about your skill. I would love to join you blog and get some more ideas and information about this skill you and others have learned. I have invested a lot in my hives and now that fall has come I have realized that it is now getting to the next chapter and will be a totally new learning curve with the different types of pest and the way that they need to be controlled. Thank you for your time and your help and I look forward to your wisdom.
    Thank you Big Rick W

  13. I’m a newb and have a top bar but I don;t see much info on top bar hives, would you put some info on TB hives TY

  14. It is an area that I would like to expand. Most of my readers do not use top bar hives but I think they are very interesting. Thanks for the request.

  15. Hello Charlotte,

    Love your blog, it is very helpful and reassuring to new beekeepers like myself. I have been observing moths creeping into the hive at night (with my trusty red light) and seeing cocoons on my corflute. Was starting to panic until I read this post. Last I saw there were plenty of bees so the girls ‘should’ be ok. We are coming into winter soon here in Australia.

    One question – does a wax moth infestation smell any different to a healthy hive? I notice a smell at the front of my hive but as a new beekeeper I have no idea what I’m meant to be smelling.

    Kind Regards
    Kay

  16. You might notice a different smell if there was a big problem. If your hive seems healthy with lots of bees and not obvious dead brood, they may be working some type of plant nectar that is causing a smell.

  17. Late to the convo here, but I just tore out drawn comb from about 30 stored frames that were infested with wax moths. Do I need to freeze the empty frames before I put new beeswax foundation in them? Where best to store drawn comb?

  18. No I dont worry about frames, I just scrape them good to make sure I have removed any cocoons. For drawn comb, either freeze it and then store tightly or store is in an open airy place.

  19. Hi, I live in Massachusetts and this is my third year as a “beekeeper” – not all that successful,with one hive. The prior two years the bees left – CCD. However talking to others – it seems that is not that uncommon. This year i decided to add another hive, giving me two. My question is this. One of the hives, is doing fine. The second hive has very few bees, no queen and larvae crawling around. The comb is not gooey nor is there the silk. Is this wax moth damage. What should I do?

  20. It could be moth larva or Small Hive Beetle larva. With few bees and no queen the hive is doomed. If the comb is still in decent shape, freeze the frames for 48 hours and then you can use it later.

  21. My hive was totally destroyed by wax moths. 🙁 While cleaning it out, I was visited by a few bees. (None were left in the supers) This makes me think they might be close by. If I put a few new frames and foundations in, do you think they will come back? I know it is late (almost November in VA) but want to help them if I can.

  22. No unfortunately, those were probably bees from another hive – even a wild one. For next time, think about what happen to your hive. Why did the population get so low that moths were able to destroy the comb.

  23. Lena Nishanian says:

    I had bee problem in the ceiling of my kitchen. Between my first and second floor we had a specialist come and remove the queen bee. While we were happy to be bee free now it’s been more than a month that we are fighting with moth thinking it is from my pantry or from any kitchen item… yesterday we realized that the flying moths are coming from the ceiling mounted lights .
    I read about it and I’m wondering how can I get rid of the rotten hive that is built between my ceiling and the second floor.
    There was a little hole outside my house and I know that the bees had access from that little hole all the way to my kitchen ceiling .
    Is there anything I can spray all I have to cut completely my ceiling and take care of it that way. I know it will be very costly but I don’t know what else I can do.
    Please give me an idea and thank you very much.

  24. Yes, the moths “could” be coming from the left behind bee products. Just getting rid of the bees is never the answer. The honey, comb, dead baby bees etc need to be removed to prevent problems with ants etc. There is nothing you can spray that will make the left behind material disappear. As long as it is in there, things will be looking for it. Do be sure that the outside entrance allowing bees access has been plugged. Otherwise, a new group will move in .

  25. Hello. I am a new beekeeper and I just went out to my hive and all my bees were gone. There has not been a lot of activity lately but I just figured it was because it was getting colder. There is evidence of wax months. I dont know why they left. They left behind 3 full frames of honey. Is the honey safe to eat? There is no evidence of wax moths on the frames with honeyThanks

  26. As long as you have not used mite treatments while this honey way in the hive, it should be safe to eat. However, why not freeze it and have a boost for next years colony.

  27. Hey Charlotte,
    I pulled 4 frames off my stash about about a week ago and and did a quick scan of other frames looking for evidence of wax worms, beetles and mites on bees. Everything looked clean and functioning like it should. Finally got around to cutting the wax off this morning and noticed 3 areas the size of a nickel with the telltale webbing. I know those weren’t there when I pulled them a week ago. I would’ve seen them because I would’ve recognized it right off. I’m freaked out. So.. got back in hive this morning and removed the inner queen excluder for winter, pulled a few frames from the brood boxes. Found the back corner has the beginnings of another nickel size webbing area but not seeing worms there or chewed wood. Found only one worm and “took care of it”.
    Now I’m second guessing myself. Should I go back in and pull every frame I ncluding brood box for inspection? I pulled the outer frames and one inner frame on each box. 2 broods and one super.
    New hive this year due to European bees invading last fall. Wiped the prior hive out clean. The current hive is strong with a lot of bees. They’ve done an excellent job keeping the population high. Not overcrowded, and not too much space. Beekeeping is great when everything falls into place. I’ll be losing sleep worrying…

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *