Feeding Honey Bees Sugar Water – Updated!
The concept of feeding honey bees sugar water often creates a division among beekeepers. Some beekeepers feel that you should never feed bees, period. They feel that honey bees should be able to make it on their own. Other beekeepers accept the need to feed their honey bees when conditions warrant.
I do not believe that bees are lazy or that feeding bees will prevent them from foraging for nectar.
Lets look at the concept of feeding honey bees sugar water and the equipment needed to do a good job.
And near the bottom of the post – you will find your FREE Printable Guide for making sugar water for bees.
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Why You Need to Feed Your Honey Bees Sugar Water
There will be times when your honey bee colonies will need your help to survive. This is especially true for a new hive.
A bee package (or a captured swarm) arrives on the scene with no resources. They have no comb, food stores, or brood . They have a lot to do before winter cold.
Feeding bees sugar water can help the colony get off to a good start. You should not have to do it forever. And never feed bees when honey collection supers are on the hive.
Established colonies can survive on their own unless you are in a drought. New colonies need extra help.
Failure to feed your bees during the warm months, may leave you with hungry colonies in the fall. Cold temps may prevent your colony from becoming ready for winter.
Sugar water is mixed well and poured into the glass jars. Using a small nail, punch several tiny holes in the metal jar lid. When inverted and placed on the hive, bees will access sugar water through the small holes.
If placed directly on the top bars of the hive, you will need an extra deep box to enclose the feeder.
Some beekeepers use a temporary hive top with a 1″ – 2″ hole in the top. The upside-down jar is placed over the hole. Be sure to secure the jar to the hive in some way. i.e. Cover it with a plastic bucket and place a brick on top etc.
We do not want the wind or a raccoon to push the jar over. Of course, you can also use an empty deep box (with a top) to enclose jars inside the hive.
Nectar availability ebbs and flows in most areas. It is subject to climate conditions such as drought or a late freeze. Strong winds, cold temperatures or rain can affect foraging conditions.
Too little food during Spring build up causes the bees to sacrifice brood (young). Poor foraging conditions in the Fall prevent storage of food for Winter survival.
The bottom line is that we cant always rely on natural nectar. This is especially true because we keep more hives in a one area than you would find in nature.
Feeding Honey Bees Sugar Water – For New Colonies
Let’s talk about package bees. The majority of new bee hives established each year begin with package bees. This small wooden and screen box contains about 10,000 bees and a queen. Other than a small can of sugar water, the bees have no resources but themselves.
Experienced beekeepers often freeze excess frames of honey. These are fed back to colonies at a later time. Unfortunately, the new beekeeper does not have this option. Feeding honey bees sugar water is necessary in most areas.
I prefer sugar water made with pure cane sugar. Avoid powered sugar, brown sugar, molasses etc when feeding bees. These sugars have indigestible components that can make your bees sick.
If the bag does not say pure cane sugar, it probably is not. You should be able to find pure cane sugar in your local grocery but you can order it if you prefer.
Sugar Water Ratio For Feeding Bees
There are 2 basic formulas used by beekeepers for feeding honey bees sugar water. We call them 1:1 (1 to 1) and 2:1 (2 to 1) ratio. Let’s break this down because to a new beekeeper it can be so confusing.
You can measure by weight or volume it does not matter. New colonies are fed 1:1 to encourage brood rearing. 2:1 ( 2 parts sugar to 1 part water) is used in the fall to encourage storage of food for winter.
Sugar water honey will keep your colony from starvation but it is not real honey. A golden rule to remember when feeding bees sugar water. Never feed bees when honey supers on your colony are meant for human consumption.
Many beekeepers use a feeding supplement in their sugar water. It promotes good feeding and prevents your syrup from becoming moldy. Containing essential oils, these produces are reported to promote good health in our bee colonies. They are concentrated and the beekeeper would add a small amount to the sugar water.
Honey Bee Feeders
A multitude of feeders are available for feeding honey bees sugar water. Each type or method has pros and cons. Lets explore the most common bee feeders.
A Boardman Feeder (Entrance Feeder)
Use this feeder with a regular glass canning jar. It fits into the front hive entrance. A beekeeper can easily see when to refill. This type of feeder does have its problems. It does not hold a lot of sugar water and will require refilling often. The smell will attract wasps and bees from other hives to the entrance. This may result in fighting and robbing.
If you want to use a boardman feeder, place it inside the hive. The entrance feeder can be placed on top of the frames needs an empty box around it to close up the hive. You can use several feeders at one time!
The Hive Top Feeder
Hive top feeders sit on top of the hive under the telescoping top. They may be made of wood or plastic. This is a great option for the new beekeeper who is not able to visit their hives daily. The feeder will hold around 2 gallons of syrup and will feed the colony for several days. One disadvantage of hive top feeders is their tendency to leak over time. They are also heavy when filled and care must be taken to avoid spilling syrup around the hive.
A frame feeder takes the place of one frame in the hive body. Most frame feeders hold approximately 1 gallon of syrup. Being inside the hive, the bees have easy access to the food.
Frame feeders have some cons. You have to open the hive to refill. And, you will always have some bees drown in the feeder. If you choose to use frame feeders, put some type of floating material inside. I have used small sticks or wooden Popsicle sticks to reduce bee drowning.
Bucket Feeders (Or Pail Feeders)
The bucket feeder is one of the most popular bee feeders. A small round plastic bucket with a mesh feeder hole holds 1 gallon of sugar syrup. (You will also find larger styles available.) Fill the bucket with sugar syrup. Put the lid on tightly. When you turn the bucket upside down, some syrup will escape until a vacuum forms. Put the upside down bucket directly on top of the frames. Bees will feed from the mesh feeder hole in the bucket ( or small holes drilled by the manufacturer).
Like the boardman feeders, this method requires extra equipment. An empty hive body around the bucket allows the hive to be closed. If you choose, you can use a temporary hive top with a small hole drilled in the center. Place your upturned bucket over the hole. A brick or rock on top of the bucket will prevent wind damage. Refilling the bucket can be accomplished easily without disturbing the colony. And no drowned bees !
Bee Feeder Styles Are Diverse
I am not a big fan of outdoor community feeding. It is not very efficient and feeds all the wasps and other undesirables. But at times, this type of feeding can be beneficial to my colonies.
#1 Problem New Beekeepers Face When Feeding Honey Bees Sugar Water
The biggest mistake made by new beekeepers is failing to feed a new colony long enough. Feeding honey bees sugar water can not have a set time frame of when to stop. When bees first arrive, they are hungry and feed heavily. In a few weeks, a natural nectar flow may occur in your area.
A beekeeper who stops feeding in April may find a surprise in the September hive. No food stores for winter and frames that do not have honeycomb drawn out are common. The new colony full of potential in the spring now faces starvation.
The moral of this story is feed your bees. If they lose interest in the sugar syrup, remove it for a few weeks. Then offer a small amount of food. If they take it quickly, you will know it is time to start feeding again.
You should stop once they colony has drawn out the comb in all your frames and filled some with honey. (How much will depend on your climate. In my area, I want a deep and a shallow full by September.)
Here is the download link for your Free Sugar/Water Ratio Guide:Click image
Preventing Robbing When Feeding Bees
I love my bees but they are all little “robbers and thieves” . Especially during times of a nectar shortage or complete lack of nectar (we call that a dearth) you may experience robbing. The stronger or more aggressive hives with fight the weaker hive and steal honey(sugar water). Once this begins it is difficult to stop.
If you see a fighting frenzy at the front of your hive, cover the hive with a damp towel. The towel hanging down loosely over the entrance of the hive tends to calm the situation. If that is not successful, I have turned a water sprinkler on the hive for a few hours.
Robbing is best avoided. Be vigilant when feeding bees, keep entrances small enough for the colony to defend. If a small colony, entrance should be only about 1 inch, a larger colony of strong nuc can have a bit larger opening.
Feeding bees is a lot of work and expense. How much you need to feed will depend on your climate and foraging conditions. This is another example of why it is important to connect with local beekeepers.