How to Requeen a Hive
There are several reasons a beekeeper may be interesting in requeening a hive. Perhaps there is a problem with the old queen or the beekeeper may simply wish to add some new genetics to the bee yard. No matter the cause, a colony without a queen honey bee is a colony in peril. Every effort must be made to get the hive to a good queen status.
In a normal season a healthy honey bee colony has a good system for growing and maintaining their colonies.
As Spring progresses, the colony grows in population. Congestion in the hive promotes swarming-where a portion of the workforce leaves to create a new colony.
The mother colony is able to produce a new queen from fertile eggs left behind. In fact, before the swarm leaves – several queen bee cells are in the works.
This is the normal progression of a natural colony that requeens itself. Most of the time everything works out well.
Requeen a Hive Naturally
The beekeeper may face a situation where the colony needs a bit of help. If for any reason a hive does not have the fresh eggs or young larva to make a queen – the beekeeper can lend a hand.
By taking a frame containing fresh eggs and/or very young larva from a queen right hive- and giving this to a queenless colony – the colony can make a new queen.
This works more often than not and it a is a good ways to keep a colony going at a time when buying a queen is not possible.
This method does have it’s limitations. The queenless colony must have a large enough population to rear a healthy queen. And, there must be enough drones in the area for proper mating with the virgin queen.
Otherwise, requeening the bee hive with a mated queen is the best solution.
Why Replacing a Queen Is a Good Idea
The most common reason for requeening is to replace an old queen. The colony will eventually replace her but you may not want to wait.
Queen bees can live for several years. But, it is rare for a queen bee to be productive past the age of 2.
As she ages, her pheromone levels begin to drop and egg laying rate is reduced. This allows the population of worker bees in the colony to drop.
Eventually, the colony will replace a failing queen – we call this supersedure of the queen.
However, if the population decline happens right before the honey flow, you may lose a large portion of this year’s harvest.
Also, she may run out of stored semen and become a drone laying queen. This situation spells disaster without beekeeper intervention.
Most Common Reasons a Beekeeper Replaces a Queen:
- the old queen is over 2 years old
- the colony is queenless
- the old queen is not laying a good pattern of worker brood
- the beekeeper want to introduce new genetics
Best Time to Requeen a Hive
If your honey bee colony is in dire need, you can replace the queen during any of the warm months.
One of the best times of year to requeen is during late Spring into Summer. At this time of year, mated queens should be relatively easy to obtain and purchase.
As you move into early Summer, the Spring rush is over, available queens should be well-mated.
By giving them a new Queen during Summer, she will have several months to become established before Winter. And if you have problems, you have time to try again.
Ordering a New Queen Bee
The first step in requeening is to order your new queen bee. Queens are constantly shipped through the mail.
Most of the time this process works well but be sure that you understand the replacement policy in case she arrives dead!
If you live near a beekeeping supply, they will often have extra queens for sale during the season. Otherwise, you can order a queen bee through the mail.
Each Colony Has 1 Queen
A honey bee colony normally has only 1 queen at a time. Before you can add a new queen, you must remove the old one.
You may feel bad about replacing (killing) a queen who has worked hard for the colony. It may sound silly but I feel a little bad too. Still, it must be done for the good of the colony.
Before you do anything to your old queen, you should have a new queen “in your hand”.
Not on order, or on its way – “in your hand”. Do not kill the old queen until you have the new one ready to go!
How to Find the Old Queen
When replacing a failing queen you must remove her before inserting the new queen. Otherwise, the she will most likely be killed.
Finding the queen bee is often a difficult task for beginner beekeepers. The job gets easier with time.
Because the queen honey bee’s job is egg laying, we know where to look first. She is usually found in the brood nest of the colony.
Start your search in the box that contains the brood nest – concentrated areas of bee brood . You may need to set a couple of boxes aside and work your way down to the brood.
Learning how to find the queen bee takes practice. Finding her may take a while, this is a job that should not be rushed.
Once you have located the old queen, you can decide how to dispose of her. Some beekeepers squish the old queen and leave her dead on the frames. They feel that this helps the colony to realize that she is gone.
A colony with a failing queen is often a bit more “testy” than normal. Stay calm, move slowly and use your smoker to calm the bees.
Replacing a Queen Bee
When replacing an existing queen, some beekeepers recommend leaving your hive queenless for 24 hours.
This means you would kill your old queen and wait until the next day to introduce your new queen. I don’t do this as it requires the hive to be opened twice.
The choice is yours. Again, never dispose of an old queen without her replacement in your hand. She will arrive in a “queen cage” with a few attendants.
How to Install a New Queen in the Hive
There are 2 common methods of queen release: direct and indirect.
If the new queen is released into the hive immediately, this is called “direct release”. This is normally a really bad idea.
Unless the workers are queenless and desperate, the new queen will be immediately killed. I do not recommend using this method.
The other method of queen introduction is indirect. With this method, the new queen is slowly introduced to the colony over several days. This gives the bees time to accept her as their queen.
The new queen and a few attendants (bees that came from her hive) are held in a small cage.
The “queen cage” will have a candy plug on one end. The white candy blocks the exit. If there is a cork over the candy plug, remove the cork.
If your new queen comes in a plastic cage, you may find a cap over the candy tube. Remove the plastic cap – allowing the hive bees access to the candy plug.
Over several days the bees, inside and outside the cage, slowly eat through the candy plug. This gives the bees time to get to know the queen.
Some resources suggest that you should poke a very small hole in the candy to give the bees a head start.
My advice is to gently test the candy plug. If it is pliable, do not punch a hole in the candy.
If the candy plug seems very hard and dry, you may want to use a small nail or toothpick to make a small hole.
Be careful, I can’t tell you how many new beekeepers have killed their queen trying to make a hole in the candy.
All beekeepers have their own way of doing things – find what works for you. Some enjoy using special queen introduction cages.
Place Queen Cage in the Hive
Place your queen cage between 2 frames in the bee hive. Choose frames in the area with brood or central part of the hive if no brood it present.
If the exit hole (candy end) points down, workers inside the cage might die and block the exit. The candy end should point up to prevent any dead bees blocking the exit.
However, if you live in a very hot climate that might cause the candy to melt, place the cage horizontally. Within a few days, the candy is eaten away allowing the queen to be released.
Fitting a wooden cage into a mature hive can be tricky. I like to push the cage just below the top bars and then gently squeeze the frames together just enough to hold the cage in place.
It is important to be sure that the exit hole is open between the top bars – so your queen can leave the cage.
If you twist the cage so that the screen is open to hive workers, they will communicate with the new bees and even feed them.
This is temporarily leave a bigger gap between your frames than normal. That’s okay. You will remove the cage in a few days.
When I am using the plastic queen cages, I use the same procedure. However, I push the frames close enough together to hold the candy exit tube between the wooden parts of the frames.
Consider feeding your bees when you are requeening. Yes, even if a nectar flow is on. I have found my bees to be more receptive to a new queen when food is plentiful.
Checking for Queen Acceptance
To avoid stressing the colony, wait 7 days after cage placement to check the hive. If you see the new queen walking around on the comb, she has been accepted.
Seeing new eggs that she has laid, means you have been successful at giving your bees a new queen.
Now, the queen cage can be removed and the frames pushed back together properly.
If you do not see eggs, check again 3 or 4 days later. Sometimes, the new queen needs a little time to settle down and get to work.
Requeening is a necessary beekeeping management practice for those who want to grow productive hives.