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How to Clean Beeswax: Easy Tips for Success

Learning how to clean beeswax may sound difficult-but it really is not. Wax can be cleaned with some simple materials you probably already have around the house. When beekeepers gather wax from the hive, it is mixed in with honey and other substances. Before using raw wax for your crafting projects, we need to clean it.

How to Process Beeswax

Pan of beeswax cappings ready to clean image.

No matter the project, the first step to having clean wax is processing. Sometimes called rendering beeswax, this process cleans out any debris. Once the wax is pure, the possibilities are endless.

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One of the most popular ways to use beeswax involves making candles. Beeswax candles require very clean wax to burn well-otherwise the wick will clog. The wax may look clean but it can contain substances that prevent a clean candle burning etc.

 Wax is made by honey bees using special glands on their abdomen. They consume large amounts of food and shape the wax scales into hexagonal cells that make up honeycomb.

Beekeepers harvest wax that is left over from honey extraction, scrapings from boxes, colonies that die, etc. A beekeeper that harvests a lot of wax may produce less honey. Therefore, wax is a valuable hive by-product and sells for more per pound than honey.

Rendering is just another term for cleaning. It means the same thing and was used more frequently in years past.

This raw wax can contain: honey, wood splinters, propolis, pollen, bee cocoons etc. These impurities make the wax unsuitable for some projects.

Once the wax is clean, it is good for making beeswax candles, lip balm, furniture polish and many other crafts.

free option for a crafting with beeswax book

How Beekeepers Harvest Beeswax

  • cleaning cappings wax
  • wax left over from crush and strain

Once the beekeeper collects the honey crop, the wax and honey must be separated. Beekeepers using a honey extractor are able to reuse most of the wax in the frames. However, they still must cut off the cappings of each cell.

Cappings are made from the freshest wax so they will be light colored beeswax. Spending less time in the hive, cappings wax has less time to absorb stains from honey, pollen, propolis and thousands of little bee feet stomping around on the comb.

Crush & Strain Honey Harvest Produces More Wax

Beekeepers who do not use an extractor to harvest honey have more excess wax.  They crush the entire piece of honeycomb-freeing the golden liquid inside.

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There is a tradeoff for this method of honey harvesting though. The beekeeper gets more wax but may face a reduced honey crop next year. This is because the colony must rebuild all of the honeycomb in the frame – not just a new cap.  

Cleaning Process of Raw Beeswax for Beekeepers

  1. collect excess beeswax – (cappings or crushed comb)
  2. drain any good honey from the wax – cappings hold a lot
  3. rinse beeswax in cool clean water – not your kitchen sink!
  4. melting is the next step for cleaning – I use water
  5. pour clean wax through a filter bag (such as nylon curtain pieces or cheesecloth or sweatshirt material
  6. leave your clean wax to cool in some type of flexible container

Remove Beeswax Cappings

Beekeepers use an electric hot knife (or a cold knife warmed in hot water) to slice the wax cap off the frame of honey. If you only have a couple of boxes to harvest, it’s fun. Once you have 10 or more boxes, it’s work!

Beekeeper removing bees wax cappings from honey frame image.

Separating Beeswax from Honey

Fresh cappings are sticky. The amount of honey in the cappings can be quite significant. There are 2 common methods of separating the wax and honey.

  • uncapping tank or double bucket system
  • use a filter bag

Double Bucket System of Separating Honey and Wax

I often use a 2 bucket process to separate my beeswax from honey.  You can purchase a commercial uncapping tank that does the same thing or make your own.

A tall 5 gallon bucket is the base. A slightly shorter bucket close to the same diameter is placed inside the large bucket.

Because of the top rims of both buckets, this usually results in a space of several inches being open in the bottom of the larger bucket. This is the collection space for honey.

The smaller bucket has many holes drilled in the bottom. Cut cappings (or crushed comb) are collected and placed in top bucket with holes.

Any remaining honey drips down into a clean chamber. Left to drain overnight – most of the honey drips through into the bottom container. Of course, this is done inside my honey house where no bees can get.

A mass of clean beeswax cappings in a bucket image.

Use a Filter Bag

If you don’t have 2 buckets of the proper size, you can use a filter bag (or strainer bag) to hold the wet cappings. When using a strainer bag, place the cappings in the bag.  You can buy honey strainer bags, use paint bags or make your own with cheese cloth.

Suspend it over a clean bucket that will catch the residual honey. This clean honey can be used as long as you practice good hygiene .

Nylon bag with crushed beeswax cappings and honey hanging above bucket for cleaning image.

Warning – the bag will be heavy!  Tie the bag to something sturdy enough to handle the weight.  This must be done in a warm, bee tight location.

With either method, most of the honey will be drained out by the next day. The time needed will depend on the amount of honey remaining in your wax and the temperature of the room.

Wash the Cappings Wax

After most of the residual honey has dripped out, the cappings are still sticky. As part of my cleanup regime, I like to rinse the stickiness out of the cappings wax.

Large strainer bags with a coarse mesh are very useful for washing cappings as it holds them together.

Only use cool clear water. It is as simple as placing your cappings in a bucket and adding water.  ( similar to washing green beans. 🙂

Place a clean strainer bag in a 5 gallon pail – then add wax. Fill 3/4 of the bucket with cool water and hand wash the wax .

When you think you have most of the honey out, grab the top of the filter bag and lift – allowing the water to drain out of the clean wax cappings.

And for heavens sake don’t wash them in your kitchen sink!   How do you spell clogged drain?  One way is B-E-E-S-W-A-X.

Letting Your Bees Clean Your Wax

The practice of letting the bees clean the cappings in the open is practiced by some beekeepers. They spread the cappings out on a flat surface outside and let the bees find and clean them.

The value of this method is that the bees are making use of every bit of honey. Also, it is frightening and fascinating to watch. However, this plan is not without serious risks to your bees.

There is a danger of this activity causing robbing back at the hive – even if the cleaning takes place a far distance away.

For this reason, I never put out wet cappings for cleaning. If you choose to do so, be sure to place the wet cappings as far away from your bee yard as possible. **

Cleaning Beeswax for Crafters

Cleaning raw wax with water is my final step in preparing wax for candle making. When you clean or melt your beeswax in water, you are removing any remaining trash. As a beekeeper, I do this as a final step before using the wax.

If you are a crafter, who is purchasing raw wax from a beekeeper, I suggest you repeat this step. It is very helpful to remove any remaining residues.

This method works so well because liquid wax floats on top of water.  When the liquid wax cools, you have clean wax on top and dirty water below.

It is important to remember that you do not want to overheat your beeswax. Too much heat will reduce the nice aroma and darken the color.

Also beeswax is flammable. At a temperature of about 400 ° F, it will flare and burn. **Be careful – always take proper precautions to prevent burns and fire**

Chunks of raw beeswax ready to melt and clean with water image.

Melting Beeswax in a Double Boiler

A double boiler is the safest method for melting beeswax. You have 1 pot on the stove that contains water. A smaller pot sits inside the water pot and holds your wax.

This allows the heat to be transferred from the water to spread uniformly around the pot holding your wax. You have less chances of over heating the wax or causing a fire!

If you don’t have a double boiler, one of these inserts can help you create one. I have several of these- they are awesome for projects.

Once the wax is liquid, carefully pour it through a straining material. Use cheese cloth, nylons, paint strainers or old sweatshirt material for straining.

Cooling And Storing Beeswax For Later

You can pour your liquid wax into any type of mold. I like to use recycled takeout cups because when the wax cools and shrinks, it pops out easily.

Cooled wax will NOT easily come out of any type of container use something that is flexible. Leave your wax to cool and harden over night.

How to Clean Wax in a Solar Melter

Melting beeswax in a solar melter is a common practice. My larger solar melter is made from an old steel box with a heavy piece of glass on top. It is really ugly and looks gross but it does the job well.

Cappings are placed into a pan inside the box, a tray with a small amount of water collects the dripping wax.  Over a couple of days the heat of the sun will melt all the cappings. 

As temperatures drop, the wax will cool into solid form in the tray.  Once cooled, I can remove the solid chunk and discard any water.  The water will be dirty and have honey residue – do NOT feed it to your bees.

If you only have a small amount of cappings, you may choose to use a home-made melter. You can make your own solar melter . Using an inexpensive Styrofoam cooler and a sheet of glass, the melter is set in a sunny location.

At the end of the day, you will have rendered clean beeswax.  If you want to make your own solar melter – its easy. You can find many plans and instructions for other types of wax melters online.

Though a common material that everyone has seen, there are still questions about beeswax that pop up from time to time and the answers may just surprise you.

Clean, sweet smelling beeswax is great to use for many different projects.  You can even make your own beeswax crayons. And the best thing is that your beeswax will never spoil so you don’t have to be in a hurry. Now that you have a chunk of nice beeswax – anything is possible.

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  1. Finn Steno Thygesen says:

    About open air cleaning:
    Robbery is not the only reason. Spreading of deseases as for instance foulbrod will follow the honey and wax. That is why you never should feed with honey of any kind in open air..

  2. Beekeeper Charlotte says:

    I could not agree more. There are several reasons that open air cleaning can cause problems. If bees from a diseased hive intermix with non diseased bees, they sure could spread disease !

  3. And for heavens sake down wash them in your kitchen sink!
    Is this not exactly what you want people not to do?
    Its probably “don’t”

  4. Beekeeper Charlotte says:

    LOL, opps thanks – darn auto correct – it was dont not down. Thanks for catching that. I learned early on to keep beeswax away from my drains as much as possible.

  5. What are your thoughts on using a crockpot on low to melt, then screen to filter?

  6. Beekeeper Charlotte says:

    Absolutely fine idea.

  7. Can be keeping be done in harsh winter climates like up state NY?

  8. Beekeeper Charlotte says:

    Absolutely, people keep bees almost everywhere. You would need to take to a local beekeeping group or your state agricultural department to learn about any special measures you should take to protect them during winter. I think I have some NY beekeepers in my Facebook group

  9. You are so wonderful. Would love to come spend a few hours with you. Have you ever considered having a group over and charging for your time?

  10. Beekeeper Charlotte says:

    Thank you so much for you kind remark. I used to do local classes but it becomes a liability issue.

  11. I have a pail of capping wax that was left unprocessed. All the wax is infiltrated with grey mold (definitely not bloom). Is it possible to safely process the wax and remove the mold? Will using this wax in candles run the risk of casting off mold into the air when candle is burned?

  12. Beekeeper Charlotte says:

    It will be fine. You can clean it – rinse it as well as you can and then remelt it and strain through cloth.

  13. Hello Charlotte,

    I am looking to find raw(unheated) beeswax about 2lbs. From what I’ve seen on your site, I realized that it will be “mission impossible” to find what I’m looking for. In the states, most beekeepers use the same principle that you have so beautifully demonstrated here?

    Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

    Thank you for your support and sharing of your passion,

  14. Beekeeper Charlotte says:

    Hmm. Well, I don’t think you will be able to find unheated beeswax unless you find a local beekeeper. Tell him or her that you want to buy the beeswax cappings left over from harvest. You don’t want them melted down. I do heat my beeswax carefully because it is the only way to clean the wax and separate from residual honey. So, I think beeswax cappings is what you would need to look for.

  15. Hello Charlotte,

    I’m sorry for the delay.
    Thank you for the suggestions.

    I asked the local producer what was the temperature of his beeswax processing, but he wasn’t sure about it. On the Web I found that to preserve the beeswax “alive”, the temp should not be over 64-65C(147-149F). Do you check your melting temperature, by any chance?

    Thank you for your time.

  16. Beekeeper Charlotte says:

    Beeswax is composed of many compounds, esters, fatty acids etc. I have been to a lot of beekeeping meetings but I have never heard anyone say that wax was damaged at those temperatures. I have read that you dont want to heat beeswax over 185F or 85C. Also, it is worse for the wax to be held at a hot (but not scorching) temp for a long time rather than reaching a higher temp briefly. I checked my wax temp when I first started and it was about 162F – I would never get the wax melted at a lower temp.

  17. Ralph Tangeman says:

    Is it safe to put used wax into a feeding tray for the bees to clean up?

  18. Beekeeper Charlotte says:

    I think so, if you do it far away from your hives. Otherwise, you may start a robbing frenzy.

  19. Curious what other steps are needed when rendering wax to consider it “food grade?” Beeswax is basically edible, but no one wants to eat partial wings, propolis, old honey and other debris that harbor inside.. so melting down and fine-straining through a thicker (clean) nylon stocking seems to work.. thoughts? Thank you!

  20. Beekeeper Charlotte says:

    I have no idea though I would assume it is the same issues are processing honey. Clean conditions

  21. KATHRYN FOSTER says:

    Hi Charlotte
    Thanks for your very interesting website. I have learned such a lot from you.
    Earlier in the year we had a colony die and I am ashamed to say I have only just got round to dealing with the hive. The empty comb was nasty grey/black and I thought I would just melt it and make rough candals to take the frost off my greenhouse in spring. I put it in a dish in the oven and it softened but it simply wouldn’t melt even when I turned the heat up much higher than would normally melt it. I am very curious to know what changes have taken place in the comb and wondered if you would know.
    Kind regards

  22. Charlotte Anderson says:

    Was the comb old? If it had been in a hive for a few years – that could be the problem. Each round of brood leaves behind pupal casings in the cells. These of course do not melt. I’ve had this happen before when melting down several old frames of comb and only ending up with a tiny bit of real wax. Just in case (and to be safe in regards to fire), I would melt it in water and see what happens (in a throw away container of course ;).

  23. KATHRYN FOSTER says:

    Brilliant! Thanks for your reply. That explains it. Yes, the comb was old. I will try melting some in hot water as you suggest but I’ve also found that it is a good starter fuel to get the log fire going. I think it’s to do with the large surface area. Do you happen to know what is the chemical makeup of pupil casings?
    Thanks again for your reply. I always learn something when I visit your website.
    Kind regards

  24. Charlotte Anderson says:

    Wonderful. Best of luck to you. I too worked with old comb once and it yielded such a small amount of wax – I said “never again” LOL

  25. Appreciate your postings Charlotte. What would be the problem in putting the caps to boil before washing? Wouldn’t the honey still come out of the combs along with the debris?

  26. Charlotte Anderson says:

    Sure, but I let the honey drip out of the wax first because it is good clean raw honey. Then I rinse only because I want to reduce the amount of “goop” in my hot cleaning water. You don’t have to rinse though.

  27. Hello, I have melted my wax using in water, but after cooling down it was quite ‘friable’ or ‘crumbly’, not as hard as I have seen on many pictures and videos. Do you have any recommendations?

  28. Charlotte Anderson says:

    Hmmm, the only time I have seen something similar was when someone used a metal pot that reacted with the wax.

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